Good afternoon! Following are excerpts from my personal journal, which the class is encouraged to update daily with reflections and notes. It details some, but not all of my travels today from the bustling, dynamic Astorga to the relatively low-key Rabanal del Camino:On things people leave behind on the Camino:
(1) At least from what I have observed today, garbage! It is possible that some pilgrims are also litterbugs? I was shocked that, along the long stretch of dust and dunes between Astorga and the next town, wrappers and other non-biodegradable items idled along the side of the path, tossed by careless hands. This is our Camino! Keep it clean! Treat it like it was your home! I think this observation/criticism marks the point on the journey where the Camino becomes my Camino, at least physically. I notice the little details now, and am personally concerned with its upkeep.
To the pilgrims' credit, though, some of the trash very well could have been from passing cars, vehicular vandals of the environment :P. As an afterthought, I myself am guilty of depositing something on the Camino, in a time of need...a blanket that doubled as a towel, which was weighing me down immensely on my 35-Km odyssey to O Cebreiro. So shoot me! There was no garbage can in the wilderness, and holding on to it would have been counterproductive to my desire tp of losing it.
(2) Stones "in memoriam." I've taken notice to the various and numerous pillars where people pile stones to recognize something of importance to them. How touching! I never think to carry a stone, but I suppose that I must, as I approach the Cruz de Ferro tomorrow. Any person is simply in my prayers for now.
(3) The Fence of Woven Crosses. Just 5 K from the end, someone erected a wire fence, and the tradition has sprung to place crosses of sticks within the wiring. I placed a cross there for my two sisters, and moved on. It was only appropriate, and I hope they are doing well! Love you Kim and Danielle.
Dr. Gyug expertly remarked on the involuntary, spontaneous evolution of certain traditions, like the Fence of Woven Crosses. It is entirely manmade and very very new (maybe the last 5 years), yet is already a phenomenon not to be missed on the Camino and of equal spiritual significance as other, older traditions, like the rubbing of the pillar of St. James in Santiago. The creation of the Fence just goes to show how people's creativity and faith can be channelled into something beautiful and meaningful, out of the blue.
Today I made my first friends on the Camino outside of my class: Harriet and Margaret, two wonderful ladies from the Netherlands whose English made it very easy to communicate with them all the way to Rabanal. As I passed them, we just started talking, then we decided to stop and have lunch together, then we decided to leave together, and before you know it we're chums. I do hope I see them again - they were considering, however, passing Rabanal and moving on into Foncebadon for the evening. Buen Camino, ladies, and may our paths cross again!
The last notable event of my walk was being literally chased down a street by a wild dog :(. He was seriously angry at me! I didn't have a stick at the time, so I couldn't get diesel on him and defend myself. I had to wait for a German couple who was properly armed with sticks to provide safe passage for me. St. James protect my soul and my life from these savage beasts!
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Actually, that is a grand mis-statement of the history and wonder that one particular site of Rabanal has to offer; I refer to La Iglesia de Santa Maria de la Asuncion (pictured below).
Believed to be constructed around the 12th century and of dubious affiliation with the Knights Templar (!), La Iglesia is small but truly stunning and a bit eerie inside. Its architecture is of the Romanesque style - lower ceilings, rounded arches, simpler construction - and is currently being maintained and run by 3 German Benedictine monks living across from the Church in the Monastery de Monte Irago (pictured below).
In 2001, these three monks were on the Camino themselves, albeit probably a little more ascetic than us modern hi-tech students, and were moved by the spirit to establish a monastery across from the church and to serve other pilgrims´spiritual needs by holding mass at various hours of the day. The most popular, and most awesome of the services are Vespers, which are daily evening prayer services sung in Gregorian Chant.
In the middle ages, Vespers were traditionally held at 4 PM, or "the hour of the lights," in accordance with Byzantine Catholic ordinance, or the Rule of St. Benedict of the 6th century. The Vespers we attended were at 7 PM, though it was still very bright outside.
At the mass I attended, only 2 of the 3 monks sung, so I didn´t get the full solemn affect of the Gregorian Chant, which usually makes my stomach stir because of its majesty and power. Often only one monk would sing and the other would chime in. :( Not quite the chorus of twenty all in perfect unison (but not harmony! - too early in the development of music) and in deep registers. This monk who did his solos had a high voice.
At the mass I attended, only 2 of the 3 monks sung, so I didn´t get the full solemn affect of the Gregorian Chant, which usually makes my stomach stir because of its majesty and power. Often only one monk would sing and the other would chime in. :( Not quite the chorus of twenty all in perfect unison (but not harmony! - too early in the development of music) and in deep registers. This monk who did his solos had a high voice.
REGARDLESS, It was Beautiful and appropriate for pilgrims of any religion or sect, because the music could put you perfectly in touch with yourself and impel you to focus on the "inner light" that we all are feeding. I really fell in love at the Vespers, and could have listened to those talented, selfless monks all night.
The refuge is purportedly cold, although I don't believe the other students, I feel fine.
We also walked by the Refugio Guacelmo, which is the other cultural landmark of the town. It was established from an abandoned parish house of the 9th century, and it´s establishment pretty much revived the life and popularity of the town, which was formerly "moribund." We saw the statue of Santiago Peregrino outside, but did not go in.
I eagerly anticipate group activities later with my class, such as Mafia or cards. I´m really glad that we are in a bunker to ourselves tonight, to facilitate the bonding.
Much love from the Camino!
Joseph Robert Bertino
We also walked by the Refugio Guacelmo, which is the other cultural landmark of the town. It was established from an abandoned parish house of the 9th century, and it´s establishment pretty much revived the life and popularity of the town, which was formerly "moribund." We saw the statue of Santiago Peregrino outside, but did not go in.
I eagerly anticipate group activities later with my class, such as Mafia or cards. I´m really glad that we are in a bunker to ourselves tonight, to facilitate the bonding.
Much love from the Camino!
Joseph Robert Bertino
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